Short answer: caring for an automatic watch comes down to a full service every 5 to 10 years, as recommended by the brand, and a few simple everyday habits: wear it or wind it regularly, keep it away from magnets and knocks, and check its water resistance. As an order of magnitude, a service costs from about €150 to €400 at an independent watchmaker in France for a common calibre, to over €1,000 at a brand service centre for a chronograph or a watch with complications.
How often should an automatic watch be serviced?
Manufacturers generally recommend a service every 5 to 10 years. The range reflects changes in oils and materials: recent movements from some brands are rated for longer intervals than older calibres. Your watch's instructions or warranty booklet give the recommended interval.
In practice, the calendar matters less than how the watch behaves. Have it serviced sooner if you notice any of these signs:
- the power reserve is noticeably shorter than stated (see Power reserve: how long does an automatic watch run?);
- the watch gains or loses much more than usual, without having been near a magnet;
- the crown becomes stiff, catches or spins freely;
- condensation appears under the crystal: this is the most urgent case;
- you hear an unusual noise when the rotor turns.
If your watch suddenly gains several minutes a day, check for magnetism first: demagnetising often solves it, with no service needed. See our article on magnetism.
What does a full service include?
A service, sometimes called a “full service”, always follows the same steps:
- Complete dismantling of the movement, part by part.
- Cleaning of the components in dedicated baths.
- Replacement of worn parts, the mainspring if needed, and the gaskets.
- Lubrication of the friction points with the right oil for each location.
- Reassembly and regulation, checked in several positions.
- Water-resistance test and final inspection, often over several days.
Case polishing is often offered as an option. On an old or collectable watch it can reduce value, because it removes metal: say so before handing the watch over.
Automatic watch service: what should you budget?
There is no single price: it depends on the calibre, the complications, the parts to replace and the workshop. The ranges below are indicative orders of magnitude commonly seen in France, not price lists: they vary by city, workshop and the watch's condition. Only a quote is binding.
| Type of watch | Independent watchmaker | Brand service centre |
|---|---|---|
| Three-hand automatic, common calibre (ETA, Sellita, Seiko…) | About €150 to €400 | About €400 to €900 |
| In-house manufacture automatic | About €300 to €700, depending on access to parts | About €500 to €1,200 |
| Chronograph or complications | About €300 to €800 | Often over €800, several thousand for grand complications |
Independent watchmaker or brand service centre?
An independent watchmaker is generally cheaper and faster, and works very well for widespread calibres (ETA, Sellita, Seiko, Miyota). Check that they can get original parts for your watch: some brands reserve their parts for their authorised network.
The brand's service centre costs more and often takes several weeks, sometimes several months. In return, it uses original parts, often restores the watch to factory specifications and generally guarantees the work. For a recent, valuable watch, or one still under warranty, it is the safest choice.
In both cases, ask for a detailed quote before any work, and ask for the replaced parts to be returned to you.
How to care for an automatic watch day to day
Between services, a few habits make all the difference.
Keep it running regularly
An automatic watch winds on the wrist. If it has stopped, give it about twenty turns of the crown before wearing it rather than shaking it. If you own several watches, a watch winder keeps them wound and on time, which avoids repeated resetting and handling of the crown.
Treat the crown and the date with care
- Always screw the crown fully back down if it is a screw-down crown: it is what keeps the watch water-resistant.
- Do not change the date in the evening or at night, generally between 9 pm and 3 am. See why.
- Never operate the crown or a chronograph's pushers under water.
Keep it away from magnets, knocks and temperature swings
Speakers, wireless chargers and magnetic clasps can magnetise the hairspring. Sports with repeated impacts (tennis, golf, mountain biking) put strain on the movement. Also avoid saunas and sudden changes from hot to cold, which wear out the gaskets.
Check water resistance
Gaskets age even if the watch is not worn. If you swim with your watch, have its water resistance checked regularly, ideally every year, and always after a knock or after the case has been opened. A water-resistance check is quick and inexpensive compared with a corroded movement.
Clean the case and bracelet
A microfibre cloth is enough for the case. A metal bracelet can be cleaned with a soft brush and warm soapy water if the watch is water-resistant with the crown screwed down. A leather strap, on the other hand, should not be washed: see Caring for a leather strap.
Store it properly
At rest, the watch should be protected from dust, direct light and humidity, without touching other watches. A watch box with cushions suits most collections. To go further: How to store your watches at home.
Does a watch that has stopped for a long time need a service?
Not necessarily, but it deserves caution. After months or years without running, the oils may have thickened or migrated. A simple test helps you take stock before deciding. We cover it in An automatic watch stopped for months: what to do before restarting it.
Care at a glance
| Frequency | What to do |
|---|---|
| Every day | Wear or wind the watch, screw the crown back down |
| Every week | Wipe the case, let a leather strap air-dry |
| Every year | Water-resistance check if you swim with the watch |
| Every 5 to 10 years | Full service, as recommended by the brand |
Frequently asked questions
Is a service necessary if the watch runs well?
No, but wear progresses without visible signs. Sticking to the interval recommended by the brand stops a worn part from damaging others, which would cost more.
How long does a service take?
Generally a few weeks at an independent watchmaker, and often longer at a brand service centre, depending on parts availability.
Does a watch winder replace servicing?
No. It keeps the watch running and on time, but renews neither the oils nor the gaskets. Above all, it avoids repeated stops and resetting.
Should the gaskets be replaced at every service?
Yes, that is the rule: gaskets are among the parts systematically replaced during a full service.